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90

Glenkinchie 25 YO 1991 57.2%

3rd SpRel 5928 bottles 2016, refill eur sh butts

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Price: £300
Score: 90p (N: 21 T: 23 A: 23 C: 23)
First Glenkinchie steeped in sherry casks. And it starts bad. Dusty oaky smell of old socks, stale aldehydes, aargh. Citrus wants out but is gelded. Airing improves the odour, sweeter cooked ham with flat mustard! A half spoonful of water gives rounder sweetness of honey/syrup, sometimes orange esters. The taste require water as well (at cask strength dull esters crawl out, met by empty oak). Watered it tastes unripe pear and apple compote until rich small citrus marmalade expands. Long sweet-viscous ending in orange marmalade, at the same time sluggish and salivating with understated aching heat. Another half spoon produces a dense rich fruit sweetness, small citrus and exotic fruits herald a spice crescendo with a Juicy Fruit refreshing exit. Oh what a fun salivating after party we’re invited to, jam/fruit syrup with lots of oak, warming and menthol bitter. Forget the shaky nose and go for the entertaining mouth!