SpRel 1812 bottles 2016, refill am hsgh
Score: 95p (N: 23 T: 24 A: 24 C: 24)
An exclusive grain whisky of epic dimensions. Small neutral scent, somewhat touchy, easing with a little water getting a baked character. Lemon toffee/fruit cake, its aggressiveness is blown away, wholemeal marks the old age in the back. 40 oak years create a stable water-resistant grain-mouth. It tastes honey lozenges at cask strength with lemon drops, soon cakey chocolate oak elevated by ethereal oak together with sweet and fatty marzipan cake. A long fruit serenade finish, spicy irritable but appetizing with lemon pie and a pinch grapefruit peel. Slower taste with a little water, lemon taffy and candy (feels slightly artificial), tingly oak follows, twiggy dryness. All rescued by a long finish with a wonderful taste of lemon caramel/pie. A cakey phenol-mat pushes on, semi-dry and easy going! More water makes the palate fuller and more advanced, lemon taffy and liqueur-soaked savarin meet fatter creamy dried fruit and roasted almonds before ethereal oak lifts followed by Turkish coffee and fruit syrup – oh so good! Long, long ending where lemon pie swells and gets the saliva flowing, candy and candied fruit peel consort, ethereal spice-oak drives and enlivens the offing. If last year’s unpredictable Cally played hard-to-get this year’s Cambus is unique in its accessible complexity, a stunning old-grainer!