Auchroisk 25 YO 1990 51.2%

3rd SpRel 3954 bottles 2016, refill am hgsh/refill eur sh butts

Price: £280
Score: 93p (N: 23 T: 23 A: 24 C: 23)
Auchroisk is accused of being a lightweight. A typically boring blending malt. But my experience of the 10-year Flora & Fauna malt is a rather loutish and blunt palate. This 25-year-old is striking extensive and indeed phenomenal. Mild scent of olde esters; strawberry mousse with a lemony sting. It also has a Stimorol gum nerve with an elegant coffee shade. Calmer with water, candy-ish with floral overtones, chewing gum fresh. Creamy flavour of dried fruit, dense and full-bodied with complex fruitiness, halfway buzzing aromatic Stimorol-oak and black coffee, in depth orange esters. Long Juicy Fruit finish with orange/citrus and humming aromatic oak. Some water peels off layers thinning the whisky but another drop does wonders. Longer flavour and richer fruit! Complex estery mouth, peach nectar and lemon curd, late fatter taffy and crisp oak. Fantastic long aftermath celebrating sapping esters and easy-going honey. Citrus peel bitterness (grapefruit-lemon-seville orange) plus sooty wood-phenols emerge when the oak eases. With its £280 affordable.